Hotel Review: Great Northern Hotel

Good Things editor Zoe Perrett revels in comparison glorious and stellar complicated British food during London’s Great Northern Hotel

With cooking requisitioned during Plum + Spilt divert in usually a integrate of hours, we equally abuse and applaud a vicinity of a room to a cupboard a Great Northern Hotel has located on each floor.

Open to all guests, this pleasure room offers not usually tea and coffee creation comforts nonetheless also handcrafted cake, Tunnock’s teacakes, and sentimental confectionary – i.e., all a things those looking to keep appetites total should equivocate like a plague.

But we’re #eventprofs and so, with sad back glances during an exuberant potion jar of Jelly Babies and usually a few brute lemon sherbets creation it into LB’s increasingly-sticky palm, we shelter to a room… usually to find a tray of macarons and truffles fibbing in wait alongside a pleasing fragrance of flowers.

Dream decor

Hoping that out of steer unequivocally is out of mind, we accumulate them in a fridge and bustling myself admiring a decor. Named for a hotel’s master builder, a Cubitt room is smartly embellished out in olive immature and cream, with comparison glam leather-and-walnut furnishings and a imagination cut potion counterpart above a kind-sized Hypnos bed. It’s large rather than whimsical; if it were a woman, it’d be a kind who favours a well-cut fit over a dress.

One can usually covet a furnishings for so long, so eventually we stoop to examination partial of a film LB has comparison from a Great Northern Hotel’s endless and nominal library – Baywatch. He apparently needs a mangle from a uninterrupted glamour.

With a suppositious cooking drum about to strike, though, that mangle can’t final too long. Washed and brushed adult and formally attired, we deplane to a hotel’s in-house restaurant, Plum + Spilt Milk, where a menu is overseen by Mark Sargeant.

Winner dinner
GNH-021.B (1)

The dining room’s a stunner, all old-school railway chic, a centrepiece supposing by a miscellany of hand-blown potion strand bulbs dangling during several heights. During a day, floor-to-ceiling windows inundate a room with light; in a evening, they means harried commuters a glance into a universe they’d distant rather be a partial of than a 18.27 to Luton.

We discuss that room of a Big House we’ll positively one day possess will be best matched to a appealing petrol shade of a wall dirty with exuberant design frames, before remembering all a honeyed treats we’ve upheld adult and a fact we’re starving. Then a attentions spin to a menu.

An all-day, seasonally-changing complicated British affair, this considerable request deserves one’s full concentration. It’s a ‘would eat’ from start to finish but, alas, we contingency slight a selections.

Thus, LB commences with a crispy steep salad – a plate on that he casts his settlement of all restaurants that offer it. The verdict? The best one nonetheless – featuring cucumber, open onion, jammy poached plums and, critically, wet meat.

For me, a comfort plate to finish all comfort dishes: creamed smoked haddock with hollandaise and a runny-yolked poached hen’s egg. Resembling a crusty-topped ultimate fish pie, it’s magnificently abounding and I’m grateful for a petite stature. Any incomparable and that’d be my cooking all done.

But as it goes, I’ve plenty room to do my 280g Mey Selections ribeye steak. The medium-rare beef is flavoursome on a own, nonetheless a dousing of smoked garlic and parsley butter positively does no mistreat (well, maybe to a arteries…), and nor does a good sluice of deeply umami blue cheese and blockade sauce.

LB’s categorical is usually as tasty nonetheless a small some-more Middle Eastern – a span of pinkish lamb cutlets with a spiced lamb croquette, a sharp of smoked aubergine puree and a dollop of garlic yoghurt. Choosing from beef drizzling chips or rosemary fries is impossible, so we beg equal opportunities and sequence both, and a garden salad and some hispi cabbage that don’t usually lessen shame nonetheless also ambience good.


It’d be cross to eschew a restaurant’s eponymous dessert, so we sequence ‘Plum + Spilt Milk’ and are rewarded with a trifle-like public of plum compote, vanilla cream and cinnamon dusted toasted brioche. For LB, it’s a clearly-Snickers-inspired ‘iced peanut and pickled caramel mousse’ – a dim chocolate-topped ingot whose benevolence defeats both of us in a end.

It’s late and a dining room has left from bustling to ‘we’d unequivocally like to purify down for a night nonetheless we’re distant too respectful to ask we to leave’. But we can take a spirit even before there’s a spirit of one, so we take a leave and retire for a dusk – succumbing usually a singular (very good) truffle each before bed.

The brunch bunch
Brunch is a zeitgeist it seems will never come to an end, nonetheless few places do it so good as Plum + Spilt Milk. Again, a restaurant’s morning menu closely resembles a bucket list of things you’d like to eat before kicking a proverbial, and a food it delivers is each bit as good as a prior night’s dinner.

A course of smoked free-range bacon, Paddock plantation sausages, chunks of Stornaway black pudding, and poached eggs from a delightfully-named Cackleberry Farm sets us adult for a strenuous post-checkout tour really easily indeed. If usually sitting in a automobile burnt a few some-more calories…

Make it happen
Great Northern Hotel, King’s Cross St Pancras International Station, Pancras Road, London N1C 4TB
For some-more information and to book, click here

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Posted by on Oct 31 2017. Filed under Reviews. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry

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